Longtime readers know Arterra is one of my favorite Virginia wineries. I’ve been drinking Jason Murray’s wines for nearly 20 years—at a rate of at least two cases per year. People I really love get them as gifts, too.
This has been one of my most anticipated releases, drawn from what many consider Virginia’s most celebrated growing season.
Why the 2023 Growing Season Was Special in Virginia
If you don’t remember, 2023 was a long, hot, dry summer, punctuated by just enough rain at exactly the right moments—enough at the beginning, very little during heavy growth, a helpful nudge at veraison, and dry conditions through harvest.
Grapes were able to fully ripen and concentrate flavor with minimal rot pressure. If winemakers could have programmed a season, they wouldn’t have been able to do better.
The 2023 growing season gave Virginia exactly what it needed—heat for ripeness, dryness for concentration, and just enough rain at the right moments to keep vines healthy. Grapes ripened fully, flavors intensified, and rot pressure stayed low. If winemakers could have programmed a vintage, this would have been it.
Arterra’s Low-Intervention Winemaking Philosophy
Part of why I keep coming back to Arterra is their philosophy. Winemaking decisions are guided by low-intervention principles, with the real work of winemaking happening in the vineyard.
That means minimal to no chemical use (they’ve completed year one of the organic certification process), careful pruning to limit vigor and encourage competition, and thoughtful planting decisions to help vines survive Virginia’s dramatic winter swings. I talked with Jason about this back in 2019.
The result? Wines with bright fruit, powerful tannins, and the ability to age gracefully.
Tasting the 2023 Arterra Estate Wines
I had signed up for the release dinner after a wonderful experience last year, but rough weather forced a reschedule. Instead, I headed up to taste, purchase, and get home before the storm rolled in. These are definitely snowstorm wines.
Matt joined me because he was worried I’d scoop the bottles before he could—and he wasn’t about to let that happen.
2023 Cabernet Franc (Seven Oaks Vineyard)
I started with a splash of Cabernet Franc from Arterra’s satellite vineyard, Seven Oaks. It was released last fall and is from the 2023 vintage, but not part of this release. This Cabernet Franc reminded me exactly why I adore this wine: clear, focused fruit from start to finish.
It has a juicy quality I really enjoy, and as an easy drinker, it doesn’t need food to shine. This is a perfect “walk in the door after work” wine.
2023 Petite Sirah
Next up was the Petite Sirah. The 2021 vintage of this wine landed in my top ten of 2023, and this release is a sharp contrast to the lighter Cabernet Franc.
It’s dark and inky, with big but refined tannins that give the wine a hefty sense of structure. I love the depth here. This is a wine I happily drink on its own or with food—this style is right in my wheelhouse.
2023 Petit Verdot
My beloved Petit Verdot was next, and Jason is an expert with this grape.
The 2023 vintage shows classic Arterra style: very big tannins, but less jammy than some previous years. Over the hour and a half we spent tasting, the wine continued to open up and my money is on this continuing to develop and bring the fruit to the front. Jason and his team noted that leaving the bottle open all day makes a tremendous difference. We know I am not a patient man.
I enjoy this wine either way, but I strongly recommend decanting to get the full expression. It’s powerful up front, with a mellow, satisfying finish.
2023 Tannat
The 2023 Tannat was deeply impressive. From the first sip, it delivered the intensity I expect from Arterra.
Like the Petite Sirah, it comes in big, with gorgeous tannic structure that’s genuinely thought-provoking. I would love this with a good cut of steak—the richness of seared rare meat would beautifully complement the wine’s depth.
Decant this, or age it if you have better willpower than I do. This one is built for the long haul.
2023 Crooked Run Estate Blend
The crown jewel of the tasting was the 2023 Crooked Run—one of my most anticipated wines every single year.
What fascinated me here is that all three components—40% Tannat, 40% Petite Sirah, and 20% Petit Verdot—are tannic powerhouses on their own. In this blend, they relax. The result is character without aggression, structure without hardness.
I opened a bottle once I was back at home to have with friends over steak on the grill, and with an hour and a half decanting, it was absolutely lovely. This wine is going to age into a stunning expression of Arterra’s estate grapes.
Fall 2023 Red Releases Worth Noting
While there, I also sampled a few fall red releases.
The 2023 Blaufränkisch felt very similar to the Cabernet Franc, just lighter—open, airy, and easygoing.
The 2023 Zweigelt landed a bit more firmly for me, with slightly more tannin. Tasting notes describe it as silky and velvety, and I picked that up as well. Between the two, the Zweigelt edged ahead for me.
These don’t pack the punch of the estate reds, but they have plenty of personality and are well-suited for your friends who prefer lower tannins.
A Standout Blast-from-the-Past: 2021 Zero Petit Verdot
I finished with a glass of the 2021 Zero Petit Verdot, a wine I absolutely love.
As I sipped, it struck me how closely this aligns with wines made using carbonic maceration. It delivers jammy Petit Verdot fruit alongside tannic structure, and it’s holding onto its character beautifully.
This wine works chilled or at room temperature—and I really should have brought a few bottles home.
Talking Vintage with Jason: Looking Ahead
Jason stopped by to talk with Matt and me about the vintage and what’s happening at Arterra. He’s thrilled with how the 2023 wines are showing and strongly recommends decanting to let them open.
We also learned that 2024 may be even better than 2023, while 2025 turned out to be a lower-yield year—thanks to spotted lanternfly pressure and a third consecutive drought year.
Jason is also excited to be through year one of organic certification, a path that aligns perfectly with how thoughtfully these wines are grown.
Why Arterra’s 2023 Wines Belong in Your Cellar
These wines are drinking well now and are built to age beautifully. I brought a lot home—and I’m thrilled about it.
The 2023 vintage showcases exactly what Virginia wine can achieve when great farming meets careful winemaking. Arterra continues to be a shining example of what’s possible in Virginia, and this release reinforces why they remain a cornerstone of my cellar.
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