Cellar Reflections: Virginia Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc is sometimes people’s favorite Virginia wine, but for me it’s often an easy drinker that satisfies.  It rarely makes appearances in my Top Ten, but is always reliable.

What Is Cellar Reflections?

Cellar Reflections is a series exploring how Virginia wine grapes show up over time—in my cellar, in blends, and in real life. These posts aren’t tasting notes or winery profiles. They’re reflections on what I choose to drink now, what I choose to age, and why certain grapes keep earning space on my shelves.

Cabernet Franc: A Virginia Favorite

This grape is often called the red grape in Virginia. There are roughly 700 acres of Cabernet Franc growing in Virginia, and it is the most widely planted red grape in the state. Jake Busching and I have an ongoing friendly ribbing about my disdain for that title – he gives me grief about my Petit Verdot adoration, as he is a tremendous cheerleader for Cab Franc.  Jake is one of a large number of Virginia winemakers who absolutely love working with this grape and make really good wine from it.

Stephen Barnard is another huge advocate for this grape, mentioning at a recent barrel tasting how he loves working with this grape.  Keswick Vineyards, where he makes wine, produces at least three different bottles/styles with each vintage.

I find it varies widely by site and winemaker.  Some makers incorporate new oak to encourage long aging while others produce vibrant wines in neutral oak or even in stainless steel or concrete.  The Virginia Wine Collective had a Cabernet Franc Flight recently that highlighted four Virginia producers’ take on this grape, showcasing Cabernet Franc’s versatility.

Cabernet Franc: But Not My Favorite

Virginia Cabernet Franc doesn’t pack the powerful tannic punch of Petit Verdot or Tannat. Instead, it’s a grape that responds clearly to winemaking choices. It tends to show medium to high acidity, light to moderate tannins, and bright, juicy fruit—often tart cherry with lighter, wispy dark fruit. Depending on oak and handling, it can feel fresh and vibrant or darker and more brooding. The style I’m most drawn to lets the fruit and acidity lead, with minimal oak influence and tannins that present as easygoing rather than provocative.  I have several Cabernet Francs I drink regularly, but generally it’s not a grape I seek or get excited about tasting when I go to a new winery. It’s enjoyable, but to me, rarely a “WOW” grape.

This is a Post About Cabernet Franc by Itself

Stylistically, I find that easy drinkers from Arterra, Delve, Hark and Walsh fit the bill nicely.  On the other hand with new oak barrels, tannins come into play and there can be earthy, leathery elements that wrap around the fruit. Jake Busching makes some amazing Cabernet Franc in this style.  I find decanting brings forward what I enjoy most about this method.  Cabernet Franc sometimes has pyrazines, giving that green pepper sensation. I tend to tune out when there are pyrazines, finding them a bit overwhelming. A handful of winemakers are making Cabernet Franc Carbonic Maceration (see below) and Common Wealth Crush’s clients are having some success with co-fermentation to bring forward very interesting wines.

Virginia Cabernet Franc does show up in a variety of blends in Virginia, bringing that acidity and juiciness to other Bordeaux grapes for an interesting balance. Possibly one of the most interesting ones I’ve had recently is not a blend, but a coferment – Dos Idiots by Lightwell Survey.  With 55% Cabernet Franc and 45% Petit Manseng, this wine is described on the site as an “elegant, lush and generous red.”  I’d say it’s plain fun – another easy drinker that you can enjoy with (or without) nearly any meal.

There are a number of Virginia wineries that use Cabernet Franc for Rose since it carries that acidity and can bring forward some very bright flavors, generally strawberry and raspberry to my mind. I’m eagerly anticipating Hark’s 2025 Rosé which will be 100% Cabernet Franc. 

I’m nowhere near well-versed enough in Virginia Cab Franc-heavy blends to speak well to them, so I’m focusing on those marketed as single variety.

Virginia Cabernet Franc: Aging is Optional

I haven’t tried to age Cabernet Franc made in neutral oak (I generally drink it too fast after purchase!).  With some new oak in it, the wine will age beautifully.  I prefer it to be made with little to no new and mostly neutral oak so that the oak doesn’t overwhelm the fruit and take a long time to integrate. Blends, of course, will age quite well.  I do have some of the above-mentioned 2022 Jake Busching that I’ve allowed to sit for more than a year after he released it – I enjoyed it on release but knew it would mellow and be more to the style I love with time.

What does my Stock of Cabernet Franc Look Like?

Arterra Cabernet Franc is a red I buy every vintage, and tend to enjoy and go through pretty quickly.  Because it is so fruit-forward, I enjoy it immediately.  Hark’s 2023 Cabernet Franc was a real game changer for me too, as it presented similarly. It’s available at every weekend Wegman’s trip, which is quite dangerous for me.  I keep a bottle of Delve’s 2024 Cabernet Franc on hand also.  These wines are so very easy to sip.  

At the recent Keswick Vineyards Barrel Tasting, I grabbed two bottles of 2024 Cabernet Franc. While it’s young, it’s stylistically similar to the above wines.  Stephen also let us taste a 2025 vintage Cabernet Franc made by Carbonic Maceration that isn’t released yet, and that is extremely promising.  I expect to add that to my collection.  

I started this post three weeks ago, and let it sit. I don’t want anyone to think I’m being unfair to Virginia Cabernet Franc. I get why so many people adore it, and I do enjoy my sips of Cab Franc. As I do a final pass on this, I am using my Coravin to sample from three new-to-me Virginia Cabernet Francs I bought for the purpose of writing this post.

With the aerator on, to help these open, I enjoyed each of them (and I paired with some Valentine’s Day Dark Chocolate with sea salt, spice or caramel that I may have gotten as a present, no guilt here). Two had a greener sensation that just isn’t my jam. The Pollak 2023 Cabernet Franc is totally my style. Tons of fruit on the nose, lots of black cherry on the sip. There really is something for everyone in Virginia Cabernet Franc.

TL;DR: Let Virginia Cabernet Franc’s fruit and acidity lead, and you’ve got a fun wine.  Cabernet Franc is a grape I do enjoy, and many winemakers are doing great things with it.  While it doesn’t make my top five Virginia grapes, it’s one I always come back to for something fun to sip.  Whose Virginia Cab Franc do you love? Which ones do you go back to, and what do you love about them?