Wine in Real Life: Barboursville Goodlow Nebbiolo, 2015 Vermentino and Luca’s Choice Flight

Wine in Real Life is my series that explores Virginia’s vineyards without any pretense—just honest pours, great company, and sharing the stories behind the bottles we love.

Last weekend we had hubby’s friends stay for the weekend, so we swung by Barboursville Vineyards for lunch and a flight.  I love the ambiance of the Library – it gives off a casual but upscale dining vibe – the food is exceptionally good and they have the reserve and library wines, many by the glass too! It was a gorgeous afternoon to enjoy. 

A Visit with Luca

Fortunately for us, shortly after we arrived, Luca himself was visiting with customers in the library, and he brought a bottle of the not-yet-released Goodlow Mountain 2021 Nebbiolo and opened it for us.  He remembered chatting a little at the Virginia Nebbiolo Summit they hosted back in February, and I asked him how the 23 vintage was doing.  He said it was still 2-3 years away from release (sigh), but the 2021 vintage would be coming out in a few months.  This wine tasted amazing – it showed the structure and grace that are characteristic of Nebbiolo.  With five years on it, the wine was ready – Nebbiolo when young can feel very wound up and tight, and be difficult to sip – this one shows great fruit and comes through as fresh and enjoyable.  I have no doubt this wine could sit for five to ten years and taste just as fresh, and possibly present even bigger fruit.  This was wonderful.  He sat with us for a little bit and then went to share some pours with other guests.  This was a wonderful treat for the four of us.

We ordered some focaccia bread and hubby ordered the beef sliders while I had the tagliatelle with pork bolognese. Hubby enjoyed the 2021 Merlot Reserve while I went big and ordered Luca’s Choice flight.  I really and truly wanted the sample of the 50th Anniversary Octagon.

Food and Flights

Now here’s the real story of the day.  Readers know that I was shocked that the 2023 Vermentino Reserve won the Governor’s Cup.  I grabbed a bottle at Wegman’s and enjoyed the salinity and minerality, but it wasn’t something that moved me.  The first glass on this flight was the 2015 Vermentino Reserve.  It was exceptional.  It carried similar minerality and salinity, but had a cleaner feel and was very bright and fresh.  It reminded me of the aged Chardonnays from Linden that help up beautifully over time, but it was so unexpected, especially since I wasn’t wild about the current vintages of this wine. Hints of citrus, but smooth salinity that was truly exciting. I decided on second sip a bottle would come home.

2012 Cabernet Franc Reserve was next, and this was a great glass, especially with my pasta. Ripe and enjoyable fruit, fully integrated flavors. I enjoyed this one a lot.

The next glass was the 2012 Octagon. This felt like a library wine, with some more tannin and a little leather to it. I enjoyed it quite a bit, but it was a serious contrast to the final glass.

The final glass was my 50th Anniversary Octagon. This was an incredibly smooth red wine. Amazingly drinkable, and likely to go great with anything, and with nothing at all. The word that leapt to mind was “Refined.” As it should be with a wine celebrating 50 years of winemaking! I found this wine great. Very well integrated, pleasant fruit with depth and a lingering, smooth finish.

After chatting, sipping and eating, I moved to a glass of the 2016 Blanc de Noirs. I really enjoyed this sparkling wine. It doesn’t present as sweet, but it filled any need I had for dessert.

As I said earlier, the 2015 Vermentino was coming home with me. I also grabbed a 23 Nebbiolo Reserve (tasted at the Nebb summit, hold on for a Cellar Reflections or something else, I dunno?), and a 23 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, which you saw in this past weekends Cellar Reflections post. Of course the hostess mentioned that Luca would sell the Goodlow, so I needed to bring one home. I don’t know the exact release date, but you will want to have some when it’s out. This is a stunning wine, and will be for some time to come.

Tonight, after a rather long day at work, I pulled that 2015 Vermentino out and poured, and it is as great as I recall from Saturday. I love when I am surprised by a wine I don’t expect to impress me.

All told, with this being my third visit to Barboursville’s library, I really enjoy stopping in here. It was not a cheap lunch, but it was an experience worth savoring with standout wines, a chance to chat with Luca, and great food. I strongly recommend you check it out if you haven’t.

What aged wines are wow’ing you?

Leave a comment