The 2024 Fauquier County Wine Showcase

Fauquier County wine is on the move. From its time as the far outer reaches of ex-urban DC, Fauquier County is slowly, quietly changing, with growth in housing and population, but focuses on maintaining it’s rural characteristics and roots with cattle and horse farms and large estates, and huge beautiful open land. The wine industry in Fauquier has been shifting too, with wineries maturing and producing distinctive wines that reflect time and place, and reflect the overall maturation of Virginia wine. Fauquier has some amazing soil to farm grapes, with schist and gneiss on the slopes in the north where Fauquier touches the Blue Ridge. The magic combination of great soils, good growing practices, and thoughtful winemakers allows Fauquier wineries to do great things, and these were in full display at the Showcase!

It’s been some time since I explored wineries that are new-to-me in Fauquier – partly due to COVID, partly due to relocating. But they’ve made really interesting shifts and like so many wineries in Virginia, they’ve built understanding and connection with the land they farm, and as a result, the wines are lovely expressions of their growing season.

The showcase featured 13 wineries. Set at Airlie (a gorgeous, historic property with stunning views, amazing décor and a fantastic team) this showcase is really letting everyone know how just how good Fauquier County wine really is. While it often feels like wineries are popping up in Loudoun and around Charlottesville all the time, the Fauquier wineries seem to get lost in the media blitz of these two juggernauts. But much like the quiet kid at school who comes out of nowhere to score the game-winning goal and become the star athlete who everyone loves, Fauquier wineries are deep with strength and have a lot to show you. It’s time to be sure they get seen!

Let’s be clear, Charlottesville and Loudoun get lots of attention and media love and deserve it. There is very good, consistent, solid wine being made in those places. Fauquier, I argue, is no different. In fact, I’d say Fauquier has done a lot to really focus on growing practices that respect Virginia climate and the unique soil on their side of the Blue Ridge Mountains and it’s really working for them based on what I sampled at this event. The Governor’s Cup competition this year showed lots of gold and silver medals going to Fauquier wineries (some of which we tasted at this event!), reflecting that Fauquier is taking its place and getting well-deserved attention.

I even brought Husband along to this event, and as soon as he tells me “I really liked this,” I know something seismic has shifted. He found a wine at every table we checked in at that he enjoyed. The man is coming along. I’m having a great impact on him.

I appreciated how they designed the event. In the past there was an element of competition to it, with attendees able to “vote” for favorite white, red, and sweet wines from each vendor. This year they shifted the focus and told the wineries to bring three wines they wanted to showcase and they eliminated the voting. While some visitors expressed that they missed the voting, it made for an easier time getting around. In fact, eliminating the competition highlights the collaborative nature of Virginia wine – like many of the wineries and winemakers in the state, the Fauquier County wineries really support each other with what they learn about farming on their land and lift the entire industry. I think this was a good move overall. The organizers situated the event on two floors at Airlie House. We arrived for the second tasting shift of the day. A huge crowd was leaving the early shift when we arrived, and everyone had bags of wine they were taking home. I took this as a sign that good wine awaits.

When the second tasting round opened, a lot of visitors showed up, as wine fans got into the room and started checking out the various wineries. I said a quick hello to Jason from Arterra, who gave sage advice related to pacing myself (he really knows me). We took a look around to see where we may want to start.

The vibe at the event was wonderful – it was somewhat informal and low-key, with people milling about enjoying an incredible spread of heavy hors d’oeuvres and sipping and buying wine. The winery teams were very friendly and each winery really showcased fantastic wines. While there were a lot of people there, the space did not make it feel crowded or overwhelming, but it was comfortable to walk around, sip and snack, and enjoy the atmosphere. This reflects the atmosphere at so many of these wineries – friendly, welcoming, and low-key – great places to relax, enjoy good wine, and just breathe.

We began our tasting with Mediterranean Cellars, to check out their three wines. The team shared that the Greek family who owns the winery is making wine in a Greek style. We started with an off-dry Moscato, which really was nice, and husband liked it. It was a good summer wine that would hold up well with spicy food. I was surprised they were growing this grape on their property near Warrenton, as I’ve heard little about this grape in Virginia. We moved to their Chambourcin, which was a good example of the grape, with a jammy, fruity character. It would be a pleasant wine to sip with or without food. Their last wine, a port, was tawny style and just fantastic – big and rich and an amazing nightcap. This was a great start to our day of tasting!

We immediately went to Molon Lave, their sister winery (same owners) for a great Cab Franc rosé (hubby picked up a bottle for his sister who will love it), a Cabernet Sauvignon that was rich and oakey, and another port-style that they paired (very adeptly) with chocolate. While they stylistically echoed Mediterranean’s wines, this selection reflected more of what I am used to in Virginia wine.

We moved to Pearmund Cellars next and ran into Frank Lynch there. I was sad to have missed Frank at Effingham for the Virginia Wine Love meetup, but got to chat briefly (Pearmund had quite the line for wine). We sampled a Chardonnay, the Ameritage blend and their Black Ops red blend. Hubby absolutely loved the Black Ops, so we grabbed a bottle to take. I’d agree that Black Ops was an absolutely amazing red blend that packed nice depth and earthiness to it. The Ameritage was a good blend, a little bit lighter than Black Ops.

After talking with Frank for a bit, we moved to their sister winery, Vint Hill to go through their lineup. All of these were nice wines. We began with the Viognier – despite my general dislike of this varietal, it was a lighter, tropical wine that was pleasant. We had their Cabernet Franc, which was a good example of this grape’s flavors – nice and round, easy-drinking. This would go down well after a tiring day at work. Finally I got to try their Tannat – I adore Tannat, and this was a nice dark example – it didn’t pack as heavy a punch as I am used to, but rather drank slow and easy. Vint Hill has amazing labels reminiscent of World War II that pay homage to the property, which was leased by the army at that time.

Our next stop was Slater Run‘s table. I visited Slater Run previously, well before COVID. On this afternoon, I was honestly impressed by what I perceived in their wines. I loved each and every one. They started the tasting with their Pet Nat Rosé. This glass of bubbles was refreshing, acidic and charming. This is going to be first on my list for the next hot day on the deck. Yes, that’s a few months away. Yes, it may not last that long in my cellar. We thoroughly enjoyed their Chardonnay Reserve with it’s very clean and refreshing taste. Virginia Chardonnay often gives me that sense of green apple and I prefer when it has a higher acidity with no butter or toast. This wine delivered. We finished with their red blend The Pit Jumper which was one of my favorites of the day. This is a deeper red blend and being very heavy in Petit Verdot, (with just a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to soften it), we knew it would hit the spot. This is one to savor, and will clearly pair well with meats. Unprompted, hubby bought two of each bottle. I was pretty much reeling in shock at this point, but I wasn’t complaining.

We went upstairs to see some of the other wineries. Our first stop was Morais. We sampled their 2022 Battlefield white blend of Albarińo and Sauvignon Blanc. I love all things Albariño right now, and this blend was charming. We moved to their 2021 Chambourcin. This was a very pleasant red wine, easy-drinking. I’m not the biggest fan of Chambourcin in general, but this was one of the nicer ones. Finally they gave us a taste of their Cherry wine. They shared it with a suggestion that it would go great in a Manhattan (and I’ve recently become a devotee of said whiskey drink, and wholeheartedly agree!). For Morais, I really enjoyed the white blend – it was pretty stunning and is one to grab for when summer is in full effect.

We next went to visit the Naked Mountain table. I’ve been to this winery before, well before the pandemic, and I have to say I really enjoyed these wines. We began with the barrel fermented Chardonnay. I’m not a fan of oakey (butter and toast) Chardonnay, but if that is your style, you will enjoy this wine. Next up was a white blend of Chardonnay and Riesling. I did not expect to see Riesling at this event – Fauquier soils and climate must be great for this grape that normally thrives in the Finger Lakes in New York. This was a nice blend. Finally we finished with the Raptor Red, a darker red blend with Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. I liked this one best from them, as I adore that PV backbone in a wine. We had a really great conversation with the staff member there, since she was wearing the Drink Naked shirt I had at home from my first visit there, and she loved my custom sweatshirt that I was showing off at the event. This is one of the things I really enjoyed about this event – every table had people pouring wine who wanted to talk to you about the wine, but also were just friendly, nice people. It strikes me that this is one of the hallmarks of Fauquier wine – they really bring home the sense of wine as a way for people to connect, relax, and enjoy themselves.

We moved to Philip Carter‘s table, which was one of the places Dad and I previously visited way back. We started with their Viognier, which, like the others I had at this event, I appreciated more than I have previously – tropical notes came through clearest in this one. We moved to the Governor Fauquier off-dry Vidal Blanc, which was pleasant, although sweeter wines are not my style. I could see this as a good summer evening wine for people who do enjoy this style. Finally, we had the 2020 Cleve, a Tannat/Petit Verdot blend. This was a big and bold red, and exactly the style I like. This would fare well in one of Matt’s comparisons of 50/50 blends.

Next stop was Fox Meadow Vineyards, which I’d heard about but never visited. We connected with owner Amanda who was one of the people working at the table. She started us with their Pinot Grigio which was just fantastic. We had their Rosé after that, but the showstopper for me was the 2021 Reserve Cabernet Franc. This stunner had a ton of depth and brought out earthiness and plum. I adored this and a bottle came home with me. We talked with Amanda for a bit about the fact that the winery is at a great elevation (1800 feet!) and she shared she has spoken with Christine at Ankida Ridge to learn about her experience growing Pinot Noir. Fox Meadow just jumped the line to the top of the list for a visit – I can’t wait to learn more about what Amanda and the team there are doing now and planning for this site.

Our last upstairs stop was Three Fox Vineyards. Dad and I had been here about six years ago, and found that the wines just weren’t our style at that time. The winery changed hands and the new owners have really shifted the focus. All three wines we tasted were amazing. We started with Pinot Gris, which was crisp and acidic, exactly what we expect from this grape. The second wine was their 2021 Maya. This primarily Nebbiolo blend with a dash of Petit Verdot and a tiny bit of Syrah was stunning. I haven’t historically enjoyed Virginia Nebbiolo, largely because it is so hard to ripen. Wine made from it retains a vegetal quality that is symbolic of that lack of readiness. Somehow they have these grapes ripening beautifully and turning into this gorgeous wine. A bottle of this came home with me. The third wine they were sampling was their 2021 Alysha – a blend that was mostly Cabernet Franc with 10% Malbec. This was very pleasant, and you know I am all about Malbec. I really liked what I saw from this re-envisioning of Three Fox, and I cannot wait to see where they go next.

I missed visiting Barrel Oak‘s table because we were running out of time. I know they have recently changed hands and I really wanted to see what they have happening – they had a long line at their table, and we needed to go buy some bottles and get them back to our room before getting ready for the dinner. Barrel Oak is so easy to get to from I-66, and I will need to make the time to get back to see them – it’s been at least 7 years.

Once downstairs, we made it over to Blue Valley‘s table, which had been busy the whole time during our previous time on this floor. Their Viognier was another one that defied my anti-Viognier stance – it was crisp and tropical and pleasant. We had a splash of the Yianni’s Owners Reserve, which, at this point, I’m sad to say I had stopped pacing myself. I remember it was a red wine, and that I enjoyed it, but notes were not happening by this point.

At last we stopped to check out the Arterra table. Husband was exhausted and thanked Jason for linking us to the event. Arterra brought their flagship single-varietal reds – their 2021 Petit Verdot, Tannat and Petite Sirah. I love all three, and chatted a bit with Diane on the Arterra team while she and Jason served customers. I ended up grabbing a few bottles of the Petite Sirah, as I was down to my last one and Arterra has a habit of selling out of my favorites just when I finish my last bottle. Rather than running the risk, I replenished!

I also got a chance to talk with David Foster, owner of Mountain Run Winery in Culpeper, who brought a team to check out what the Fauquier wineries were doing. He’s a great guy who is very interested in what consumers think about the wines they’re drinking and what they’re after. You may remember that my Favorite Brother-in-law wrote a guest post for the blog about their visit there last year. Anyway, I grabbed a selfie after our conversation. I love that the community of wine shows up in these ways – an opportunity to learn from each other helps lift everyone’s work.

We ended up bringing home a case and a half of wine. It’s been a while since I’ve bought so much, and now my racks are full. But that’s a good problem to have.

I have never been to Airlie prior to this event, and it is incredible. The area where the showcase was held was wonderful – it was the perfect place to have the 13 wineries pouring. The property is peaceful and beautiful. The main building is gorgeous and has a historic charm and elegance. As a place to hold a work function, to have your wedding, or to sneak away for a weekend, this rates highly. I wish I had taken pictures of our dinner, because the presentation was incredible. We had an arugula salad to start, lamb shanks, and an amazing desert. I don’t normally do instagram meal photos, but last night I really should have. When the 2025 version of this event comes, I really do recommend taking advantage and making a weekend of it – come and sample the wines, meet the winemakers and growers, stay for a wonderful dinner and enjoy the atmosphere at Airlie.

So what did I learn from attending this event and getting to twelve of the thirteen wineries represented? I see a few really great things happening with Fauquier wine right now. First of all, there is enough variety for everyone to find something they will enjoy and love – from wineries with an emphasis on clean, natural wine to wineries that feature sweet wine, Mediterranean and Greek style of wine, wines with oak, and wines with more minerality expressing in them – Fauquier is producing a wine for every wine lover, and wines to help someone become a wine lover (exhibit A, my husband voluntarily buying half a case of wine!)! The wineries represented at this event showed a lot of attention to quality in their wines, and had great reason to be proud of what they were pouring. In terms of flavor, fruit quality, and all the things we love in our wine, Fauquier County wineries hold their own with any of our beloved Virginia wine regions. I found a winery I need to prioritize getting to know better and a few wineries that I have really shifted my thinking about and thoroughly enjoyed sipping. It’s time for you to get back to Fauquier County and check some of these amazing places out for yourself!

Don’t forget that with the new year, there is a new shirt, and the old shirts are always available. I ran into someone at the Showcase who told me her son had bought her one of the designs as a hoodie! Most of the wineries we visited at the Showcase are farm wineries nestled within the woods, so our new design is perfect to wear, showing your love for forest-bathing while sipping on a glass of your new favorite wine. Check them all out and get yourself one today!